Horseshoe Canyon Ranch Climbing Trip

One last climbing trip before it turns cold!  We got a fairly early start Friday morning and got down to Arkansas in time to send a few routes before sundown...which is now much earlier!  We started off with a couple of the newer routes put up for 24HHH and then onto Strongman.  I had attempted Strongman a year ago on my first trip to HCR...it was well above my ability then.  This time I got it with just one take...should be able to get it next time if I can remember the beta.

Spam (5.7) | Scrambled Eggs (5.8) | Sin Nombre (5.9-) | Strong Man (5.9) - A, 1 | Webster Part (5.6) - L

Saturday we headed up the hill toward Titanic.  That was the plan, but half the group decided to go the other way so Forest and I climbed the new stuff behind the boulder while they climbed the new stuff on the Doomsday Wall.  We headed over to the East side in the afternoon and everyone took a turn on Man Servant.  This is a route we had been eyeing for most of the year...especially Andy.  He had tried it before at the end of the day and the start was too much when worn out.  This time though he powered through to the top and the rest of us tried it on top rope.  I was able to make it through with two takes...definitely a pumpy route!  The guidebook calls it the best 5.9 Jugbash in Arkansas.  I would say that is a real possibility.  Great route!  Next we headed up to the Roman Wall and played around on Sybarite.  Again, one take at the crux...should fall next time if I can remember the beta.  Andreas and I climbed Fesic...the last route on the Cliffs of Insanity proper that I hadn't climbed.  Then we climbed Fashion Sense with a cam placed for the belayer (due to the R rating) and finished out the day with one of the new 8's around the corner.

Poop Deck (5.6) | Little Dingy (5.5) - L | Fuzzy Buckets (5.9) | Sea Shanty (5.7) - L | Man Servant (5.9+) - 2 | Sybarite (5.9+) - A, 1 | Fesic (5.6) - L | Fashion Sense (5.8 R) | Arizona Bay (5.8)

Sunday started with a good breakfast at the Ozark Cafe and then I knocked off some easy routes I hadn't been on before.  I attempted Season of the Storm, but couldn't get the crux.  Andreas climbed it after I did and gave me the beta...should be able to get it next time!

Toys for tots (5.7) - L | Pirates Putas (5.7) - L | Season of the Storm (5.10a) - A, 3 | Perfect Hair Forever (5.7) - L | Action Hotdog (5.6) - L

[A = Attempted | L = Lead | # = Note]

Notes:
1. One take.
2. Two takes.
3. Climbed to the crux, didn't finish.

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch Climbing Trip

Yes, I went down to Arkansas two weekends in a row!  My friend Andreas was unable to go the weekend before and would not be able to go until November, so I thought I'd go down again so he could climb outside for the first time.  Believe me, it was not much of a sacrifice :)  We left early Saturday because I didn't get back from California until 11:30 p.m. Friday.  Unfortunately the whole weekend was rainy so we didn't get much climbing in.  The rock was wet when we got there and my first lead attempt barely got off the ground.  We waited about an hour for the rock to start to dry out and we top roped some stuff a group from St. Louis had set up.  I lead Paul's Redemption and then lead a bit of the route next to it on trad.  Then it started raining again.

We ran into several people we knew from the gym so we all headed into town for a group dinner and then spent the evening hanging out in the shelter.  There wasn't much climbing but we had a great time spending the evening getting to know everyone better!

Cotton Candy (5.6) | Lion Tamer (5.9-) - A, 1 | Paul's redemption (5.7) - L | Wanted Man (5.6) - L, 2

Sunday we awoke to light rain and fog.  It looked like we would be packing up and heading home.  However, by the time we had finished our oatmeal the sun was trying to break through the clouds (it never did).  We decided to give it a try and headed up to The North Forty.  Mary Ashley wanted to climb her first trad route and I knew just the one...or thought I did.  I lead Flashbacks again but the rock was so wet I didn't like some of the pinches for placing gear...so after a couple of pieces I just kept going.  When I topped out I swear I could hear Andreas exhale.  Mary Ashley said "So, you realize you basically just free soloed that."  I looked over the edge at my runout and agreed with a wry smile.  She topped it and decided it was not a good first trad route so she moved onto Kid's Stuff (5.5).  Andreas and I finished the day topping Private Property on their rope before packing up the wet tent and heading home.  It was a wet weekend, but a good weekend!

Flashbacks (5.7) - L, 3 | Sundial (5.7+) | Little Manly Man (5.7+) | Private Property (5.10a) - A, 4

[A = Attempted | L = Lead | # = Note]

Notes:
1. Went right onto Frankenberry again by accident!
2. Climbed 3/4 of the route trad then want back over to Paul's Redemption to use the anchors.
3. Totally ran it out and was accused of free soloing it : )
4. One take at the crux.

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch Climbing Trip

Finally another trip to HCR!  Left early Friday morning and headed down to drizzly a sky.  It was sprinkling on and off but we managed to get in a few routes before the rain hit.  Thankfully we were watching the radar and made it back to the cabin before the downpour hit!

Summer Rain (5.6) - L | Stiff Naked Fools (5.8+) - 1 | The Greatest Show on Earth (5.8)

Saturday we headed into town for breakfast and then hit the crag for a great day of climbing with beautiful weather.  With Jeff and Andy training for 24HHH I worked on climbing moderates with John and Drew.  The highlight of my day was climbing my first Trad Route (Flashbacks).  This was the route I had seconded last trip so I knew it was an easy route.  I had good gear placement and really enjoyed myself!  Throughout the day Drew learned to clean and even lead a few routes!  John continued to push himself as well.  After dinner we headed back up and climbed a couple routes at night.  I ended up cleaning Green Goblin in the dark, which was a bit freaky but fun at the same time.

Caught in the closet again (5.7) - L | Flashbacks (5.7) - L, 2 | Flashbacks (5.7) - 3 | 15-Degrees (5.7 PG) | Peaceful, but for gunfire (5.6) | Hanging Judge (5.6) | Deadman Five (5.7) | Leonid (5.9+) | The Hurricane (5.7) | Hangs a Little to the Left (5.8) - L | Green Goblin (5.8) - 4, 5 | Cotton Candy (5.6) - 4

Sunday we were all tired and only got in a few routes...but we still got to climb so it was a good day!

The Flying Daisha (5.6) - L | Man in Black (5.7) | Montazuma's Toe (5.8) - L

[A = Attempted | L = Lead | # = Note]

Notes:
1. First Rappel off a sport route.
2. My first Trad Lead!
3. Climbed again on top rope to clean after others topped it.
4. Climbed at night.
5. First route I have cleaned at night.