One last climbing trip before it turns cold! We got a fairly early start Friday morning and got down to Arkansas in time to send a few routes before sundown...which is now much earlier! We started off with a couple of the newer routes put up for 24HHH and then onto Strongman. I had attempted Strongman a year ago on my first trip to HCR...it was well above my ability then. This time I got it with just one take...should be able to get it next time if I can remember the beta.
Spam (5.7) | Scrambled Eggs (5.8) | Sin Nombre (5.9-) | Strong Man (5.9) - A, 1 | Webster Part (5.6) - L
Saturday we headed up the hill toward Titanic. That was the plan, but half the group decided to go the other way so Forest and I climbed the new stuff behind the boulder while they climbed the new stuff on the Doomsday Wall. We headed over to the East side in the afternoon and everyone took a turn on Man Servant. This is a route we had been eyeing for most of the year...especially Andy. He had tried it before at the end of the day and the start was too much when worn out. This time though he powered through to the top and the rest of us tried it on top rope. I was able to make it through with two takes...definitely a pumpy route! The guidebook calls it the best 5.9 Jugbash in Arkansas. I would say that is a real possibility. Great route! Next we headed up to the Roman Wall and played around on Sybarite. Again, one take at the crux...should fall next time if I can remember the beta. Andreas and I climbed Fesic...the last route on the Cliffs of Insanity proper that I hadn't climbed. Then we climbed Fashion Sense with a cam placed for the belayer (due to the R rating) and finished out the day with one of the new 8's around the corner.
Poop Deck (5.6) | Little Dingy (5.5) - L | Fuzzy Buckets (5.9) | Sea Shanty (5.7) - L | Man Servant (5.9+) - 2 | Sybarite (5.9+) - A, 1 | Fesic (5.6) - L | Fashion Sense (5.8 R) | Arizona Bay (5.8)
Sunday started with a good breakfast at the Ozark Cafe and then I knocked off some easy routes I hadn't been on before. I attempted Season of the Storm, but couldn't get the crux. Andreas climbed it after I did and gave me the beta...should be able to get it next time!
Toys for tots (5.7) - L | Pirates Putas (5.7) - L | Season of the Storm (5.10a) - A, 3 | Perfect Hair Forever (5.7) - L | Action Hotdog (5.6) - L
[A = Attempted | L = Lead | # = Note]
1. One take.
2. Two takes.
3. Climbed to the crux, didn't finish.
As we all know, life can "get in the way" of true happiness. I invite you to follow my posts as I try to reconnect with nature as often as life allows. Then,
if so inspired, pick up a paddle or pack and join me on an adventure that makes everything else fade away. - email@example.com